My honest review of London’s new afternoon tea at one of ‘world’s greatest’ hotels

There’s a leather briefcase in front of me marked ‘Classified,’ sitting alongside the propeller of a plane, a mini submarine and an old military-style telephone.

But these aren’t artefacts, they’re delicious cakes designed to represent key elements of the top secret World War II mission Operation Mincemeat, which has recently become an award-winning West End musical.

This cunning plot, which helped turn the war in Britain’s favour, was devised by spies in a basement room beneath the panelled drawing room in Churchill’s Old War Office, where today, I’m drooling over my plate.

To get Hitler’s 100,000 troops off Sicily so the Allies could invade, they floated off Spain the dead body of a fake British ‘officer’ carrying papers revealing plans for a Sardinian incursion.

It worked. Hitler moved his soldiers to the other island.

One of the plotters – who helped save the war with their daring mission – was Bond author, Ian Fleming.

Together with his MI5 colleagues, he was based at the Old War Office in Whitehall – which has itself been transformed in an eight-year, £1.4 billion renovation into the sumptuous Raffles London at the OWO Hotel, hailed as one of the world’s greatest places to stay by Time.

This month, the hotel has launched an afternoon tea inspired by those incredible events.

Each bite whisks me back to in time: the chocolate briefcase – a copy of the one carried by the fictitious officer – is a delicious mix of coffee and barley malt, a nod to wartime staples.

Another, called ‘Unspoken Hero’, is in the shape of a propeller to represent a plane which crashed in Sicily. It pays tribute to the flavours of the island: lemon, olive oil and basil.

@amandatravels4

That hand crafted chocolate pocket watch though… Situated in the centre of London, in the old war office, you will find Raffles. If you fancy splurging out and treating yourself to the most luxurious afternoon tea you will ever have, Raffles is the number one spot for you! I came across the Secret & Spies Tour with afternoon tea provides an incredible selection of teas, and the finest selection of both savouries and sweets. All refillable of course! The location is stunning. The most beautiful architecture, filled with so much history – you can actually feel it!! The service could not be faulted and the attention to detail is unbeaten! Definitely a more expensive treat, but we had the loveliest time. Definitely a memory we will savour! #london #afternoontea #splurge #luxury #amandatravels

♬ Little Things – Adrián Berenguer

But my favourite is the Intelligence Room – a cake shaped like an old rotary telephone, with dark chocolate and whisky which taste of masculinity and army messes.

The Navy cake is shaped like a submarine, in honour of HMS Seraph which dropped the dead officer off the Spanish coast and fittingly features Spanish flavours such as turron.

It’s evocative and delicious in equal measure.

A customer sitting next to me remarks that West End themed teas usually fail to deliver. ‘They’re all style over substance,’ he says.

But this mission has succeeded, just like the original.

Sandwiches, of course, arrive first and are both fresh and generously loaded.

The smoked salmon, in particular, is a treat. Scones follow with indulgent cream while the cakes are the finale and worthy of a medal.

A huge shout out here to the restaurant team who have devised a magnificent, near-identical vegan version, as well as a diabetes-friendly, nut free and gluten-free options.

It’s rare to find such an inclusive menu, and as mum to a daughter who has to avoid peanuts and ergo cannot attend most afternoon teas, I couldn’t be more delighted.

The setting is perfect: panelled walls, formal pictures, comfortable chairs and smart leather Chesterfield sofas give an air of an officer’s mess, while a pianist who plays daily from 3pm adds to the atmosphere.

The staff work in military style precision and are so attentive they even recall that I’m drinking sparkling water.

Raffles OWO is teeming with history and is, in and of itself, a spectacular destination.

We walk along long, historic corridors where, in wartime, young messengers would ride bikes because of the distance between offices.

There are two heritage Pashley bikes in reception which nod to this history.

Generals, I’m told, also rode the bikes – but with stabilisers, lest they become casualties of war.

Head here for a celebration, an experience, a date or dare I suggest it – before you race off to see the five-star musical on which it is based.

As the first line of the musical goes: Ladies and gentleman, welcome to MI5!

And what a delicious welcome this proves to be.

Amanda Cable was a guest of Raffles London at the OWO Hotel, but don’t worry — our reviews are 100% independent.

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